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    Boutique Fashion News — jewellery

    Look of the Day: Bold & Beautiful

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    How do you wear the dress that speaks volumes? No need to be a shrinking violet when it comes to accessorising. And speaking of violets, we’ve used that very colour for our coat and accessories, to add to that overall bold look. Bag and shoes in a neutral shade keep it all elegantly chic.

    Get the look from Sapelle.com:

    Modahnik Vlisco print dolman sleeve wrap dress with subtle pleat detailing on the skirt front

    Silver authentic Tuareg earrings, made by a family enterprise in Mali

    Recycled brass and glass ring made in Kenya for Made

    Recycled paper necklace from Ugandan social enterprise Nakate Project

    Coat, bag and shoes from LK Bennett, Hermes and Michael Kors

    Look of the Day – Going Green in Autumn

     

     

    yIn the first of our series of looks we love from Sapelle.com, we bring you this gorgeous green dream of an outfit that will brighten any Autumn day.

    Get the look from Sapelle.com:

    • Classically cut jacket is made from Ugandan organic cotton and hemp, designed by sustainable Ugandan designer José Hendo.
    • Stunning printed pants from Benoise designer Vanessa Augris.
    • The accessories are all ethically made using recycled brass and polished bone, while the bag is made from sustainable raffia in Madagascar.
    • Top and shoes from Vivienne Westwood and Manolo Blahnik.

    How a 100-Year-Old Necklace Opened My Eyes

    The Scotland-Malawi Link

    Maggie and I became acquainted through a mutual friend and have remained good friends for years since, finding common ground in our love of world literature and culture, despite our very different backgrounds. And recently we discovered an unexpected and fascinating link going back over one hundred years.

    Maggie’s from Scotland, a country which has had a connection with Malawi (where I’m from) ever since the Christian medical missionary and explorer David Livinsgtone  journeyed up the Zambezi and Shire Rivers to Lake Malawi in 1859. Scottish churches had established missions in Malawi by the mid-1870s and there remains a very strong culture of  partnership and development between Malawi and Scotland to this day.

    At the turn of the last century, my friend Maggie’s family were part of the British colonial enterprise that had largely been triggered by Livingstone’s travels. In 1909, the eldest son of Maggie’s family (her great-great-uncle?), a young man aged 19, went off to what was then known as Nyasaland (now Malawi) as an Assistant to the District Commissioner. His stay only lasted for 9 months as he promptly died of fever (his death bizarrely only being reported back to London at the end of the weekly telegraph to the Foreign Office, listing the latest grain prices).

    The Curious Beaded Necklace

    Whilst at her family home recently, Maggie discovered a letter sent by the young man from Nyasaland to his younger brother in Scotland. The letter said he was in ‘Ncheu’, which he described as a very nice place, in Upper Shire District, ‘close to the Portuguese border’.

    In the letter he complains about it raining a lot, which both Maggie and I found amusing, coming from a Scottish man. Anyway, he goes on to mention his interactions with people in the Ngoni tribe that were local to ‘Ncheu’.

    There was also a gift which he’d sent back to his brother. An item that’s sat quietly undisturbed in Maggie’s house, carefully wrapped in paper for over a century. It’s an intricately beaded panel with tiny glass beads very skilfully woven into a symmetrical geometric pattern, with a single strand fastening to the back, suggesting that it is some kind of collar.

    Maggie was fascinated and sent me a picture and I was immediately awed and intrigued. It’s been a few months since, and I know the impact of this discovery will last for a long time.

    Ngoni beaded collar

    The Ngoni beaded collar which was made in the very early 1900s in Ntcheu, Malawi


    I’m intrigued not only because this beautiful artefact is a little piece of history, sitting quietly in Scotland for over a hundred years, perhaps one of only a few that have survived this long. But I’m also fascinated because the places Maggie’s forefather described visiting were exactly the places my people originate from.

    Both of my parents are of the Ngoni tribe, descendants of the great and powerful Zulu nation of southern Africa, a tribe that migrated northward in the early nineteenth century after the rise of Shaka Zulu.

    My mother’s people eventually settled in Ntcheu (the district to which Maggie’s forefather was stationed), near the boma, or the administrative centre. Within a short distance of the boma is the border Malawi shares with Mozambique, a former Portuguese colony (which was also mentioned in the letter).

    My ‘Cloud Atlas’-eque Fantasy

    I couldn’t help indulging for a few moments in a fantasy that over one hundred years ago a young Scotsman, still a teenager and therefore probably completely out of his depth in the middle of a tropical rainy season, landed in Ntcheu.

    He must have been struggling to learn the language and the culture, he might have met and befriended another man, a Ngoni who took a liking to him and presented him with a gift from his people – a beaded collar. I’m not sure what the Ngoni man intended the young foreigner to do with it, but I’m sure it must have been valuable and represented high status.

    Now I don’t pretend that colonialism was the kind of rose-tinted romantic affair that we see in the old Hollywood movies. But I do know that among the many terrible acts of exploitation, there are positive and uplifting experiences, ones that were based on mutual respect. And I like to think that this was the case with our young Scotsman and his Ngoni friend.

    In reality it’s more likely that Maggie’s forefather never even met any of mine, but I just love that there’s a possibility that in a brief moment in history two unlikely men crossed paths, oblivious to the fact that their descendants, two unlikely women, would one day forge a lasting friendship.

    2010 Mocambique and Malawi

    A pub in modern-day Ntcheu with rolling hills in the background

    My Eyes Have Been Opened!

    Ntcheu is a beautiful, hilly place with lush vegetation and vibrant, hospitable people who are proud of their Ngoni roots and culture. Women love to adorn themselves with beads around their necks, arms and waists, particularly when dressing in traditional regalia for events such as weddings.

    kanjedza-inkosikati-nkosazana-rosemary-small1

    Modern-day Ngoni royal family members from the Maseko and Gomani clans dressed up for a function

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    But to think that such intricate and beautiful artwork as the beaded collar could have been produced by my people in the humble villages of Ntcheu all those years ago is hugely enlightening.

    I’ve often wondered what ancient skills and crafts may have been lost by our people over the years through migration and modernisation. Around the Africa, there are cultures which have done a much better job of sustaining and promoting their creative traditions and skills. The Masaai, Ashanti and Ndebele are just a few that come to mind.

    Perhaps I’m to blame for my underestimation of what my own people had the capability to create. I stand corrected and I stand prouder still, but I am concerned that unless we do something fast to capture those skills from our elders, we’re at risk of losing them forever. The challenge we now face is reviving these forgotten skills, now.

    I’m now doing some research into antique/ancient beaded collars and jewellery and so far have found similar types of this jewellery all over Africa, from Egypt to the Eastern Cape. Here are a few examples I found online:

    Collar Thembu Xhosa

    A beaded collar from the Thembu Xhosa people of Southern Africa

    Collar Thembu Women 11

    Archive: A Thembu woman wearing a beaded collar and other jewellery

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    A Maasai beaded collar with metal embellishments

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    A bust of Nefertiti wearing a beaded collar

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    An ancient Egyptian beaded collar

    This has become somewhat of a fascination for me now. My research continues, and I’d love to hear from our readers about any useful or interesting information they might have on this topic!

    Post-script November 2018: I’ve received a note from Stephen Long, a dealer in traditional beadwork who lives in South Africa, who suggests that the beadwork in the story is actually a pubic apron worn in the past by older teenage girls and young married women, not a collar as described – thank you!